Saturday 26 February 2011

Bounceback


It’s funny when you are feeling wasted how the little hole you’re in seems much deeper than it actually is. Since Freida arrived last week, my non-climbing life has been fantastic. The best it’s ever been, despite the adjustments and sleep deprivation. But the importance of my climbing life doesn’t just go away. It doesn’t change at all, in fact.
I used to think it was psychologically dangerous to be dependent on my lifelong habits of the outdoors, exercise and training I do through my climbing. As time went on I realised this was silly. I think eventually it becomes a part of of you that is hardwired. And thats fine. It is amazing it takes 30 odd years to realise it’s ok to be yourself!
Naturally, I’ve put a lot of thought, work and planning into how to balance my climbing and non-climbing life. I’m certainly not perfect at it let me tell you. But I have been doing this all my adult life and it’s worked out well so far. Some of this is really practical basic stuff - having a top-notch climbing wall next door to the nursery, living in the heart of the places I want to climb and having a flexible work schedule to take advantage of good conditions. These are the key ingredients for sure, and maybe the hardest to secure - over a decade of hard work for me. The others are more subtle.
Yet despite the planning, I did get the fear last week after having several absolutely crap training sessions in a row. Sure, they were performed in a haze of sleepiness, but was tiredness really all it was? And even if so, is that it for the foreseeable? I could see, for about a nano second, while falling off a ridiculously easy circuit the other night, how someone could give in to tiredness and permanently lower their expectations in order to avoid such disappointment. I thought previous experiences might insulate me from this weakness. But it’s amazing how being knackered lowers your guard.
All very gloomy. Until it wasn’t... All that was needed was a little extra sleep. It’s being grabbed an hour here, an hour there. But add it up to a critical level and lo and behold, the performance returns. This week maybe I’m getting to grips with the new routine of snatched naps. And all of a sudden tonight the power returned to my arms like magic and I clawed my way up a couple of my hardest creations on the wall. I forgot how well the body adapts and bounces back to change. What a lift!
Yes Yes I know how silly this post might read to someone who doesn’t share the same addiction to training. And I know the challenges for me are nothing compared to Claire right now. But everyone has to have something to keep them keen. And for me it’s this. I’d rather go without food for a week than training. Since this is primarily a climber’s blog, I’m just going through the little ups and downs that go on while in the bubble of the climbing session. But once it’s done, I take off my rockshoes and go back to the important stuff - Claire and Freida!

12 comments:

  1. "But it’s amazing how being knackered lowers your guard."
    So true.
    I can totally relate, thanks for posting.

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  2. Having three kids, I've been where you are. It's good you have your board to train on someone said in a book I read that just a session a week will keep your level. Anyways young infants are great spectators and three year olds love climbing. Just remember that in the phase you're in right now, nothing is permanent. Just when you thought you figured Frieda out, she changes. Good luck!

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  3. Hey Dave,

    I'm just coming to the end of a study into the changes outdoor participants have made once they became fathers. A lot of the stuff you mentioned was raised by the father's I interviewed for the study. If your interested I can send you a copy once I've finished it.

    Finally, congratulations on the great news.

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  4. I found that the first week or so of my daughter being at home, it wasn't only the times she woke in the night that contributed to the lack of sleep, it was also the poor quality of sleep you get lying there waiting for them to wake-up. A bit like being on-call at work, for example. That aspect does diminish as you get used to your new life.

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  5. Thanks all...

    rockratrobinson - sure that would be great to read! http://www.davemacleod.com/contact.html

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  6. From my perspective, once you get over the initial phase of the baby settling down, the easy part begins. Then after a very short period, they become mobile and the task of actually watching the child begins in earnest. And not all three year-olds like climbing. However that can change quickly. My daughter, who initially couldn't have cared less, has begun to like climbing quite a bit recently.

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  7. Dave what are your thoughts for us Dad's trying to keep up training on the following - that training whilst knackered might actually be a benefit once it comes to actual performance on the crag (assuming that you manage to get well rested that is for that real climb). It's a bit like training with a weight belt, or in athletics its usual to 'race' through training (i.e. have a weekly race that your don't taper for at all and will inevitably not run as well at)...? The disadvantages of training whilst knackered are obvious with the biggest one being the increased possibility of injury but I guess I'm searching for positives ;-)

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  8. Yes, yes for sure. I've managed to reach (and continue to progress towards) quite high levels of climbing fitness despite symptoms similar to CFS. I wish that additional sleep would be adequate, but accepting the limitations of the given day (without cursing the future) is essential. Of course the parent isn't one to determine this, but perhaps Freida will be the first female to climb 9a ;)

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  9. Ian - The short answer is no. lack of sleep is bad news all round really for training. Get as much as you can!

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  10. "It is amazing it takes 30 odd years to realise it’s ok to be yourself!"

    ..and sometimes it takes 40 or 50! Congrats on arriving at the proper conclusion much sooner.

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  11. Good thoughts, as always, Dave. Just to be pedantic (and no disrepect for Freida!): No said:".. but perhaps Freida will be the first female to climb 9a ;) " Josune Beretziatu(sp?) has climbed 9a(Bain de Sang) and 9a+(Bimbaluna)!

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  12. Climbing has been a big part of my life for the past 3 years. Honestly sometimes it's been the only the only thing keeping me sane. I love it!

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